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House Training

Below is some basic house training tips but if you really want to understand your dog then order the 

Easy Dog Training System

Please stay on this link so you can benefit from Luvnmugs relationship with the author 

Jonathan Jacques

I t has been my 23 years of experience with dogs and mostly pugs that their sole purpose in life is to please you. If they are no pleasing you then there is a lack of communication between you and the dog.

Any time a dog changes its behavior they are trying to communicate with you. Examples

Excessive licking

Wandering

Barking

Winning

Scratching you

Walking in circles

Any other behavior other than contentness.

 These are ways they try to communicate to you that they want your attention for something.

Once your learn their body language you have made the most important step in training your dog or puppy.

Every dog can be trained and this has to be done by you. Having someone else train your dog is not the best path, because it is hard for your trainer to cover every bit of the communication they have learn about a particular dog to you, and unless you spend the time to learn this communication yourself you will not be successful in the training process.

It is hard to cover 23 years of experience without writing a book but I will attempt to explain the process in the briefest way possible.

House Training:

This is the most frequent question I have. First it is important for you to know that I cannot house train every dog that leaves LUVNMUGS, the reason this is impossible is because no matter how much I do they still will not know how to communicate with you and not know your home.  Any time you change their environment they are stressed, and will digress in their training.

I do on the other hand spend my time on not letting them get bad habits.  A dog gets a preference of what it wants to eliminate on between the ages of 5 to 10 weeks. There for we start putting them out side to eliminate shortly after they turn 6 weeks of age.  If a puppy turns 6 weeks of age in the winter when the temperatures are to low for them to be put out side safely then this can be a reason why you are having a problem successfully training them to do so. Keep in mind we do not house train your Puppy there for your puppy is not in the house eliminating behind the sofa for example. They are given two places to eliminate outside or in a drop though cage. You have to House train them.

Training a puppy takes longer than an adult because an adult has more control of their bowels and bladder they get older.

Puppies need to go out more often and don’t have a clear way to communicate with you.  They are not mentally mature yet and this communication will develop, as they get older.  Adult dogs are more mature and it is up to you to learn their signs, once you learn their signs they will learn how to tell you they have to eliminate or what their needs are.

It is best in the beginning with either a puppy or an adult to set your expectations low. This way you wont be as disappointed or frustrated, which will hasten the train process. 

Dogs can since you’re feeling very easily and if you are frustrated, they will act up. So be patient. You will get the best results if you are patient.

Stage 1.

When you bring your puppy home don’t let their feet touch the floor till they’ve been out side first. Get a crate, the crate should be small as them, the less space they have the more success you'll have in training them not to eliminate in their crate.

Bring them home, hold them, love them, put them out side to eliminate bring them in don’t let them walk in carry them, put them in their cage. The first day spend time getting to know them. Spend the whole day just studying them. This first day it is helpful to withhold food and water if weather permitting,  for pups 18 weeks or older or adults, they can miss a day of food and water and it wont harm them, not tinny breeds call me and Ill let you know if this is recommended for your particular pup.

First morning

The first one to go potty is the dog!!!!

Sorry but in order to be successful they have to be first if they hear you steering they will feel the need to eliminate and you will have a bad start.

Take pup or adult to one designated door they will be using don’t confuses them with using more than one door, the key to success is repetition.

Put their front paws on the floor on the door on the floor, say the same fraise ex. “Want to go Potty”. Open door take your dog or puppy to the area that you want them to use for elimination, set them down and say “Go Potty”

If the dog or puppy eliminated give your puppy lots of praise with hugging and rubbing make a BIG DEAL out of it, No Treats just praise if you use treats you’ll have false indications…

If the dog or puppy doses not go in a short period of time then bring them back in and put them back in their cage. Watch them they will start to indicate they have to go, or start going, if they starts to go Stop him by saying  “NO That’s bad” take dog or puppy and the excrement or urine back to the door and go though the whole process again when you get out side place excrement or urine soaked towlet ( note keep paper towels near cage and cage close to the door) in the area of the yard you want them to eliminate and let them smell it. Make a big Deal “Good dog, such a good dog, what a great puppy you are, and more”. Bring them in clean the cage put them back

If your puppy or dog has eliminated out side bring them in and reward them by letting them play for a short time about 10 minutes for a puppy and 20 minutes for a dog. And then take them out again repeating the same process.  Bring them in and put them in the cage. Do this every hour to 45 minutes for puppies.  The last time before they go to bed for the night. It is imperative that they sleep in the cage not with you at this point or you may end up with excrement on your head in the middle of the night

Day 2

Again, dog first same steps, adult dogs can start on every 2 hrs, puppy the same amount as first day.

They should be fed at the same times every day puppies 3 times ex. Morning,  noon and evening not past 5:00. Adults mid day about 2:oo. This will get them on a schedule feeding and will help in the training process.

If you have an incident in the house go back to the first day intervals till you have 2^nd day success. If you see the dog or puppy eliminate show them your disappointed. “No that’s bad”  take them out… If you don’t see them then clean it up and don’t say a word. One trick I have found helpful is if they go in a area that you can except where it is easy to clean say for instance the bathroom ignore them don’t say a word and clean it up this will give them a alternate spot during inclimate weather. Never praise or scold just ignore and clean.

Day 3, again dog first.  Puppies same intervals, adult or pups over 6 months every three hours. If incident occurs go back to 2^nd day interval if incident occurs again go back to day 1 intervals and next day go to 2^nd day and so on till your dog or puppy makes it to the 3^rd day interval with out incident.

Day 4, puppy same intervals as first day, adults take them out every 4 hours again if incident occurs go back to the beginning till they can go without incident on 4 hour intervals

Day 5 every 5 hours and so on day 6, 6 hours.

Once your puppy or dog can go 6 hours with out incident they are ready for stage 2 in the house training process.

Stage 2 of house training some dogs get to this point in 2 weeks but don’t be frustrated if they aren’t, be Patient….

Once your puppy or dog reaches stage 2 allow them to have more freedom one room, if an incident occurs go back to stage one.  Failure do this will create bad habits. Once they have mastered stage 2 go on to stage 3 give them more freedom 2 rooms so on and so forth by the time you reach a goal of your dog or puppy not having an incident in the house now you can go on to the final stage of house training.

This stage is about leaving your dog to roam free in your home when you are preoccupied or away and this is best started after your dog or puppy is 1 year of age. Any younger you take the chance of them harming themselves or your home. Keep in mind that if they can get into trouble they will. The best place for your dog or puppy when they are unintended by you is their cage. This is not cruel, a dog has a dening instinct and they don’t mind being in their cage if they are trained to do so from the begging.

Keep in mind that if you cant see your dog or puppy they could be up to no good call them and if they don’t come go get them.

Obedience Training Basics

Below is some basic obedience tips but if you really want to understand your dog then order the 

Easy Dog Training System

Please stay on this link so you can benefit from Luvnmugs relationship with the author 

Jonathan Jacques

Although your puppy has been learning the basic obedience training steps you may or may not know the correct way to execute these skills and eventually undo the training that has been taught.

To insure that your puppy and you continue on the right path here is a simple guide for you and your puppy to follow allowing at the least 10 minutes a day

BASIC CONCEPTS:

1. The DOG’S NAME is to be used only with a moving command.  It is not to be used with a non-moving command. Use the dogs name only once per command. Example  “Rover Heel”.
2. Step off with your left foot in moving commands.  Step off with your right with no moving command. Example “ Rover heel” Step off with your left foot first. “Stay” step off with your right foot. If your left foot moves first your dog will get up and move with you. If your right foot moves first your dog will stay where he is.
3. The HEEL POSITION is with the dog on your left side, his shoulder directly below your hip within six inches from your leg.  The dog may be sitting, standing, walking or down in the heel position.
4. Basic equipment. A 6’ cotton web training lead, lupine’s Greyhound Combo Collar. That can be purchased though JB Wholesale Pet Supply 1-800-526-0388 Web site www.jbpet.com.

BASIC COMMANDS

1. Take you lead loop and place it on right index finger and bring it to your waist, grasp the middle of the lead with your left hand so the lead can slip freely though your hand fold up excess lead with your right hand on your index finger

2. HEEL:  With your dog in the heel position, tell the dog what you want him to do. Rover heel…. Step off with your left foot first and walk forward.  If your dog does not come with you, correct him with a few short tugs on the leash to coax him along.  Praise him when he does what you want him to do.
3. SIT:  Catch the lead close to the collar with your left hand, catch the lead closer to the collar with your right hand, let go of the lead with your left hand and bring it back to the dogs rump.  Give him a little praise when he sits. NOTE this is a non-moving command so no name is used.
4. STAND IN FRONT OF YOUR DOG (STAY NO NAME): Begin with your dog in the sitting position.  Drop your left hand in front of the dog’s muzzle and give the command “STAY” (NO NAME). Bring your right foot around and in front of the dog’s left front foot; move around so you are standing toe to toe in front of the dog.
5. STAND:  Begin with your in the heeling position.  The right hand grasps the lead close to the collar.  Place the back of the left hand between the elbow and chest, supporting the chest and running it bock under the belly to his stomach, giving the command STAND ( NO NAME) While you  guide your dog up with your left hand pull forward on the collar with your fight hand.